Two Sore Backs

When we left Nova Scotia for Newfoundland, back in the latter part of July, Val and I were comparing wrinkles on our fingers, almost like little kids climbing out of the tub. We’ve used the line “we had to go to Newfoundland to dry out!” many times.

Almost predictably, we arrived in Sydney from Port au Basques to grey and threatening skies. We were headed for Wycocomagh Provincial Park and on the way we noted signs saying vehicles travelling at 70kph or less should use their hazard lights. It wasn’t long before the hazards were on.

Electric cars are pretty heavy, but this storm had us aquaplaning like we were surfing at Tofino. At the crossroad where a right hand turn would take us to Inverness and a dry hotel, I was overruled and we pushed forward to the park, “just to check it out”.

As we approached the park, the rain let up, miraculously, and it stopped just as we entered the park. We had a quick chat with the attendant – we wanted a site that drained well because forecasts showed rain that night and he suggested we check out a couple and let him know which one we wanted.

The site we had reserved was not ideal, so we decided to change to one of the ones the attendant suggested. This entailed Val going to a back room in the admin building and making a call on “the yellow phone”.

20 critical minutes later, I was close friends with the attendant, knew what the winters were like, knew where the best fishing spots were, and what the best times were to visit Cape Breton. And Val had successfully changed the reservation.

Sorry, we have no photos of any of this or the next 10 hours. You’re stuck with words only.

We arrived at the site we chose and knew the priority was getting the tent pitched. It was probably 23 degrees and 100% humidity. We pulled out the tarp for under the tent and began to spread it out when the heavens opened up.

When we had the tent ready to place on the tarp, there was at least an inch of water on it. Oh, did I mention the mosquitoes? And the fact that it was now almost pitch black?

I am still haunted by this vision: illuminated by my headlamp, sheets of rain, bouncing, but not really slowing down, the biggest horde of mosquitoes I have ever seen.

We eventually got the tent pitched, and mopped out, and we went to sleep praying the rain would stop.

It did stop, thankfully. And the next day the sun broke out and it was like a steamy dreamland. I set up two 30’ clotheslines between trees and we filled them both before going to shower and clean up. We needed to be presentable. Next stop: Cabot Golf.

Before that, we had to get breakfast. A young woman at the camp suggested Tim Horton’s just down the street. Nah. We went to Charlene’s which was just outside of the park gates.

Charlene’s made it on to “You Gotta Eat Here” because of their seafood chowder. We were too early for the Fisherman’s Breakfast – the chowder wasn’t ready, but the eggs and fish cakes were outstanding. Here’s what the chowder looks like – from a later visit!

Years ago I was listening to the Sporkful podcast and they were having an intense debate over chowder and one of the participants insisted that for it to actually be a chowder it had to have potatoes.

We are now seafood chowder experts, and that guy is wrong. The top two seafood chowders did not have potatoes, and Charlene’s was the best.

After breakfast it was on to Cabot Links and an afternoon tee time.

The weather gods were on our side. Wycocomagh mosquitoes were a distant memory. Cabot Links was one of the best courses I’ve ever played, and the Cabot experience was amazing. We had a great dinner overlooking the putting green where the evening putting contest had just been completed.

Next day we were on Cabot Cliffs. I prefer Cabot Links – a Rod Whitman design- but the last 4 holes of Cabot Cliffs are just out of this world. Cliffs is a Coore-Crenshaw design. This resort did not fool around when choosing golf course architects.

Watching the golfers finish 18 at Cabot Cliffs

The next morning I snuck out on the course to take some shots with the good camera.

If you’re a golfer, you may want to add Cabot to your bucket list. If you are a fly fisher too, then you definitely do. I’ll explain in the next post.