Two Sore Backs

We’re north of Cape Breton Highlands National Park and are really impressed. Back in the planning stages, we were a uncertain about including Meat Cove in the itinerary. We went for it and are so glad we did!

Heading south to join the Cabot Trail once again, there are a few more interesting gems to check out (that we could have missed out on).

Just down the road we stop at Bay Saint Lawrence. Town has a sheltered harbour and views to the northeast.

Cabot’s Landing Provincial Park is our next stop.

The beach here is expansive. And we practically have it to ourselves.

There is another couple at the beach – maybe you can make them out in the distance. We meet up. Their plans this day are a whale watching trip that has just been cancelled and they are considering the drive to Meat Cove but mention about the road. They head off!

But wait, there is a lot of history here as well. Hmmm – the park name is Cabot’s Landing after all.

So back in 1497 the first European on continental Canada or US is John Cabot. (In 1492 Christopher Columbus discovered Hispaniola – now Haiti and Dominican Republic.)

There are a few plaques commemorating this event.

We find out one additional fun fact. Yet another plaque, this one dedicated to the first Cape Breton cable terminus of the Cape Breton-Newfoundland Cable. This cable connected communications to Port Aux Basques. This cable was laid in 1856.

Our next stop is Ingonish Beach; we’re back in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Thanks to our Windy app, we are confident of rain for the next few nights.

We pull the trigger and book an oTENTik for 3 nights. It is a very solid roof over our heads, lots of space, but we are still cooking outside (or getting takeout).

Not only can we see the beach, we can also see the EV chargers from our oTENTik. Wow! In the 5 prior national park visits on our trip, park EV chargers are no where near the campgrounds. (Kuddos – there are at least two other park EV chargers in Cape Breton Highlands NP paired up to two campgrounds.) We do not suffer range anxiety. These are not fast chargers but for overnight charging these chargers are perfect. We leave Ingonish on a full charge 😉

Pat and I have been feeling less than chipper since golfing at Cabot and realize we may have contracted COVID (maybe on the ferry from Nfld). Our first two days here we rest a lot inside our little cabin. I venture out for takeaway.

We take solace that the wet Maritimes summer has resulted in soggy trails. The Highlands Links golf course looks pretty soggy as well. We don’t really have the energy for a rainy hike. Neither of us like to golf in liquid sunshine either. A cuppa tea with a good book is more our speed this weekend.

We don’t mind the short walk to the beach. When we get there what is so striking is the immense volume of large rocks and the lack of sand. Also shocking is when we return after the first stormy night that slim band is sand between rock and water is even narrower.

Speaking with some locals we learn that the beach is decently sandy for part of the summer but the first strong storms bring a lot of rock onto the beach. The wave action sends rock onto the beach. This year, much of the sand disappeared in late July. And the time frame for a sandy beach is shrinking each summer. Many decades ago sand was trucked in by the locals. There is no intervention now. Over time nothing stays the same.

And then the sunshine returns. Our last full day gets us back outside for a beach walk and hike.

Black Brook Cove Beach

A beautiful walk and short hike to a falls.

Oh but a funny thing happened on the way to the falls. I am distracted and take the wrong trail. I end up on the Jack Pine Trail. Here is my selfie to prove it! It is lovely and fairly short (2 km). And I learn it is unusual that jack pines are anywhere near here.

Meanwhile Pat has a nice rest at the falls.

I get to the falls and have a rest.

We get a full moon and no rain on our last night.