Two Sore Backs

The Bay of Fundy is both huge and intricate.

From Cape D’Or we look across the bay to our next destination, Annapolis Valley. Today’s drive is 400 km (we follow the bay when we can). Or 40 km as the crow flies.

By nightfall we’ll arrive at Bridgetown, off to the far right in the background in this photo. (For the geography buffs, the photo below is looking due East.)

In the middle background is Cape Split. Hiking Cape Split is high on the list of must dos, but the wet summer has made the trail unappealing (another Nova Scotia trail on the ‘for next trip’ list). So this view is the best we can do on this trip 🤷‍♀️.

In the background far left is Parrsboro – we’ll stop there for lunch.

From Parrsboro, we travel further east around Cobequid Bay to Truro before heading west again towards Cape Split.

Here’s a helpful visual and explanation of the interplay of geography and tidal action in Minas Channel.

Folks without a schedule may have broken this journey into two days. Not us! Just as we decided to pack our tent away for the season, we are coming to the conclusion that Annapolis Valley, Kejimkujik National Park and a short stint through Western New Brunswick would wrap up our trip. We have dates with friends and family penciled in as well. So about eight 🛌.

The drive is lovely. We pass long stretches of beach along the north shore. Five Islands Provincial Park is on the ‘for next trip’ list. We charge the car near Truro. Only 250 km to go. We have one more stop and we’re going to run out of daylight. Argh.

Way back at Blow Me Down, Newfoundland we met Jenna and she spoke highly of Mutton Cove. We arrive at dusk. We meet a couple that are beach camping and enjoying a cozy campfire. Another place we add to our ‘for next trip’ list.

We press on, arriving at our Airbnb about 9:30pm. That was a full day and a beautiful drive.

We are staying near Bridgetown at Upper Granville. Our Airbnb is also a small farm. The bed is comfy. The roosters are our alarm clock. The pigs escape the second night and Cheese, their dog, barks to alert the humans. Love it!

Charging turns out to be a challenge. Bridgetown is midway between fast chargers at Wolfville and Digby. A bit inconvenient but we make it work. We head to Digby – we get breakfast at Josie’s Place while the car charges.

This is our second breakfast at Josie’s. We had breakfast here prior to taking the Digby – Saint John ferry a few weeks ago. We have come full circle around Fundy.

Tammy – owner/server – is a peach. She whirls around serving and chatting with her customers. She gets to know you instantly. By the time we leave she’s offered up her cabin near Algonquin Park (Ont). She’s a Newfoundlander – not surprising. And a big Maude Lewis fan.

We backtrack a bit to Port Royal NHS.

Fortunately we meet Brenda, a Parks Canada interpreter, and get a fabulous in-depth tour.

Port Royal’s Habitation is a fortified compound and it’s purpose is trade. Samuel de Champlain came here in 1605 and constructed the l’habitation. It is a planned community. Everything is brought over from France.

Skilled tradesmen and businessmen want to come to Port Royal because a fortune could be made. Their future so dissimilar from the lowly troops brought over to protect the forts.

The French partner with the Mi’kmaq. Firs are traded for European goods. The Mi’kmaq shaman Membertou is honoured here. Membertou begins an alliance with the French that lasts 100 years.

Our take away, the French work with the Mi’kmaq to both groups benefit; whereas the English see both French and the Mi’kmaq as the enemy. The Mi’kmaq just want to preserve their way of life.

The original l’habitation is destroyed by New Englanders and Virginians in 1613. In 1928 the idea to rebuild is raised by Harriette Taber Richardson. She, herself an American descendant, suggests American descendants should lead the project.

The site is reconstructed in 1938 using 17th century building techniques. Given the times, the project is funded by the Canadian govt. Luckily, the original plans and drawings have been stored back in France.

Beaver hats are a big deal. The higher the hat on your head, the more beaver fur, the higher status. Plus it keeps your head warm and dry.

There are many occupations and skills in display.

Meals and celebrations are important. Membertou is often at the head table.

Here are some other photos.

We miss out on Fort Anne at Annapolis Royal. Another gem we leave ‘for next time’.

Bridgetown is a lovely town. Keeping with the breakfast theme we stop at Aroma Mocha Cafe for breakfast the next day.

We stock the cooler for our three days of camping at Kejimkujik. The Ketobolic Kitchen, located in a repurposed school turns out to be a gem (mac and cheese, snacks). Bridgetown has it all.

The weather has been awesome for a week and looks good for another week. Hurrah! And we are camping in an Oasis pod. The nights are cool and the Oasis has a heater 😀 .