Two Sore Backs

We went to so many beaches around PEI. (Because the blog is our trip diary we are going chronologically.)

PEI Day2 Stanhope Beach is part of PEI National Park. It is handy – right across the street from our campsite. Located on the north shore and exposed to the North Atlantic, the water is colder than the southern and eastern beaches. The first observation is the sand is fine and red. Shoes optional😀. Pat went swimming and didn’t stay in for long.

We saw evidence of Hurricane Fiona’s destruction everywhere on PEI. At Stanhope our row of campsites are mostly spared but the row behind us looks like a moonscape.

PEI Day3 At Stanhope we survive about 30 hours of rain. No beaches today.

PEI Day4 We drive west to Malpeque Bay and then work our way back to Stanhope. The first beach stop is at Cabot Trail Provincial Park. There is a lovely beach near the fishing port of Malpeque Bay.

After stopping for oysters and chowder we drive back into PEI NP to Cavendish Beach.

Then we head to Morell to meet up with the McGuires and see the family homestead. We’ve covered the visit to the homestead already. Afterward we have burgers at Holy Cow in Morell. On the drive back we poke around Lakeside Beach and check out Crowbush Links golf course.

That was a three beach day. We’ll be back to the North Shore at the very end of our PEI stay.

PEI Day5 We are relocating to Panmure Island so drive into Charlottetown and then head southeast to drive the lower half of the Eastern Coastal Drive. Today isn’t great beach weather and we’ll see sunshine but not for one more day.

First stop is Point Prim Lighthouse. Those in power – political and business – grew weary of losing money and goods due to shipwrecked boats so Prim Point lighthouse was constructed. It was the first lighthouse on PEI as it strategically protects the passage into Charlottetown’s inner harbour.

We travel further south and east to Cape Bear Lighthouse and Marconi Station. This marconi station (wireless telegraph) has the distinction of receiving a mayday from the Titanic. The story goes that the mayday came into Newfoundland or Nova Scotia but the attendant had just gone home (the marconi station was not manned 24/7). So Cape Bear picked it up.

As we travel north up the eastern coast we pitch our tent at Panmure Island Provincial Park. The campers are few in number and the mosquitos are fierce. Thank goodness for shelters and a Thermacell. We set up under the apple tree.

PEI Day6 The beaches at Panmure Island are stunning. Evermore so when the sun shines!

We spend the afternoon in nearby Georgetown. In its heyday this prosperous town was a significant port, railway terminus and shipbuilding center. Today it prospers from tourism and an endpoint of the Confederation Trail.

PEI Day7 Today we move again, further north to Red Point Provincial Park. We set up our tent in a prime spot with only the Atlantic Ocean in view. We have just enough time to make our tee off time at Avondale Golf Course. We are playing with Bill and Louis.

PEI Day8 Finally another beach day. I check out the lovely beach below our campsite. Pat spends the day in Souris activating his new mobile.

PEI Day9 After an early morning swim we head to the Bluegrass Festival. (More about bluegrass on a future post.). Then meander down to Montague to meet up with McGuires’ at Bogside Brewery.

PEI Day10 We spend most of the day at Basin Head Beach. We met a super nice family from Ottawa. Here’s how, in Pats words:

I had just parked the car and the guy who pulled in beside me was getting stuff organized. I said something like “lots of moving parts for a day at the beach” and he laughed. His name was Marlon, and he introduced me to his son Essien. Oh no! A Chelsea fan! But Marlon corrected me: “No, a Michael Essien fan. I hate Lampard! Who do you support?” To which I replied “Arsenal!” He broke into a big smile and there were fist bumps all around.

It was a great day at the squeaky beach. Later we head to the distillery. More in a future post.

PEI Day11 This is our last full day on PEI for now. A storm is brewing so we’ll finish driving the Eastern Coastal Drive. Before leaving, Pat takes a few more photos at Red Point Beach capturing some kite surfers out enjoying the wind! Our route will take us north to East Point and then along the north shore to the lighthouse at St. Peter’s Bay.

East Point Lighthouse is as far east and north as you can go. It is known for having the first fog alarm building. Given it’s exposure to the North Atlantic this is no surprise. The port is active with many fish boats. The surrounding area has many farms.

For fun we detour inland on a historic scenic road (as per the map). There are many red clay roads intersecting the main roads and giving access to the ocean – reflecting the small farm agricultural heritage of the island as well as access to the railway that travelled West to East mainly through the center of the island. While the trees to the side of the road are healthy, just a few feet in the trees have been battered by Fiona. The trees near the road probably benefit from more sunlight and water runoff.

We drive into Saint Peter’s Bay for lunch before driving out to Greenwich Beach. Julio’s Oyster Express was recommended to us. You get a lot more than oysters: throw in a shucking lesson and PEI oyster geography lesson. We try oysters from 6 different oyster farm regions on PEI. Fascinating!!

PEI National Park – Greenwich Division is the newest addition (1996) to the NP. The beach is wild today with all the wind. We are short on time so do not take a longer trail hike. We’ll be back later in September.

Morell Harbour is picturesque.

Saint Peter’s Bay Lighthouse is our last stop. While the bay is large and well protected the need for a lighthouse at the point is obvious. The beach was mentioned as a favourite so we had to check it out.

If you made it to the end CONGRATULATIONS!😁