Two Sore Backs

On the advice of an Australian ex-pat who we met at a Vientiane coffee shop, we arranged accommodations in Nong Khiaw through the folks at the Mandala Ou resort. Unfortunately, they didn’t have rooms available when we were to arrive, so they suggested we stay at the Nong Kiau Riverside and then switch over to their property after returning from a planned overnight in Muang Ngoy, which is about an hour north of Nong Khiaw by boat.  The bus from Luang Prabang is around 3 hours – not terrible.

Riverside was really nice – individual huts with nice porches and beautiful views of the Nam Ou river and the limestone mountains that surround it.

Our first full day started with a quick walk into town for coffee and croissants before a hike to the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint.

The Viewpoint is a medium difficulty hike that starts through the yards of several homes in the eastern part of town.

HIt was the dry season, and while the local farmers hadn’t begun to burn off their fields, smoke from the south was affecting air quality.  Nong Khiaw would be amazing to visit in the late fall, after the rainy season, when the hills are green and the air is more clear. 

To arrange the overnight to Muang Ngoy, we were connected with Mr. Wan. He’s a busy guy – he works evenings at Mandala Ou, runs his own (very good) restaurant nearby, and has an adventure travel company with two boats. He wasn’t able to take us for the overnight, so he arranged for his uncle Hue to take us. 

First stop was a small village known for bamboo weaving.

Second stop was Tad Mook waterfall.  Access is through a small village, then the Yensabai Organic Farm. It’s easy to get lost so we were glad to have our guide.

After Tad Mook, we continued past Muang Ngoy to Sop Chem. The landscape between these towns was incredible.

Sop Chem is the end of the journey because just beyond is one of many hydroelectric dams built and operated by Chinese companies with contracual agreements to pass them over to Laos after a certain number of years. It’s Laos’ intention to become “the battery for Southeast Asia”. Of course there are agonizing environmental and social ramifications – similar to those in BC. It’s well worth reading about the dam projects on the Nam Ou and Meekong.

After breakfast in town, including one of the best freshly baked french-style sourdough baguettes we’ve ever tasted, it was back to the boat for the trip back to Mandala Ou.

What a nice property! Plus, we had pretty close access to the river for a nice swim. The Nam Ou is very clean in this area.

After Mandalay Ou we still had a couple days in Nong Khiaw, so back to Riverside for one sleep.

Then it was a visit the morning market before the bus ride back to Luang Prabang.

We had good seats for the bus trip back, with great views of farms, landscapes and hydro-electric projects.