Two Sore Backs

Paras, Denis and friends make terrific suggestions and before we know it we have 30 pins on a map of Greece. We have a rental car, our batteries are recharged, laundry is done – so off we go!

We don’t travel far to get to our first stop. The Ancient Theatre of the Asclepieion of Epidaurus

‘Constructed in late 4th century BC, it is considered to be the most perfect ancient Greek theatre with regard to acoustics and aesthetics… At a maximum capacity of 13,000 to 14,000 spectators, the theatre hosted music, singing and dramatic games … It was also used as a means to heal patients, since there was a belief that the observation of dramatic shows had positive effects on mental and physical health.’

Dramatic performances are held here during the summer (and have been since 1938 except during WW2).

Imagine a full audience and the performers entering stage left.

Standing in the center of the stage the acoustics are so good those seated in the highest row clearly hear the words spoken.

This young visitor tries it out.

It would be something else to witness a full audience and a Greek drama unfolding on stage.

The front rows in the lower and upper sections have special seating.

I would bring a comfy cushion for my fanny.

Climbing to the very top we can hear a woman singing.

I thought of making a short video clip but just then a tour group arrives and budges her off the ‘spot’.

Nafplion

Driving into Nafplion the first visual is the Palamidi Fortress. You will see from the following photos that the fortress has a habit of showing up in the background. Built by the Venetians: complete by 1714 and then lost to the Ottomans in 1715 (ouch). The Greeks wrestle control in 1822.

Nafplion is the capital of Greece from 1827-1834.

I’m going to lead with Food and Beverage. We are peckish after climbing all over the ancient theatre and driving for an hour.

We park the car and start to wander around the old city looking for a spot to sip some wine and grab a bite to eat. Nafplion is beautiful!

It’s a lovely May Saturday afternoon and Nafplion is full of tourists (mostly Greek). We are later than the (late) lunch crowd so have our pick of outdoor restaurants fronting the harbour.

Wild Duck (highly recommend) it is.

Greek salad and sea bass ceviche go nicely with a glass of red wine. And with no accommodation booked, we Google search nearby hotels.

The next day we hit a home run at Noulis. This is our second notable meal. Our hotel manager provides us with the short list of his favourite restaurants with Noulis as a special mention. The owners have an olive farm, and all of the production is used at the restaurant. 

It is shoulder season and Noulis is only open for lunch Wednesday -Sunday (until mid May). So we plan our tomorrow (Sunday) around lunch.

Tucked away on a quiet side street.

Sunday lunch

We are encouraged to mix the olive oil in with the fava – fabulous!

We asked to buy some of the olive oil, and the server just laughed.

Saturday afternoon

We check into our hotel. Then we are back out on the streets. Walking around is the perfect way to explore Nafplion. The old town is a mixture of more touristy streets near the square and waterfront, and in behind narrower less touristy streets that are just as interesting.

The evening is another great time to walk along the waterfront and wander into the narrow streets. It is Saturday night in shoulder season – it is ‘the’ busy night for restaurants and shopkeepers.

A favourite pastime with the kids. They learn to drive at a young age. (Dad has the remote.)

Spotted on a t-shirt – Malaka. This translates to ‘masturabator’ and it’s a word we hear often when guys talk to other guys. When questioned on this, one fellow said, with a smile on his face, that in the case of close friends it means “sir”.

Pat laughed out loud when a woman scolded the dog she was walking. “MALAKA!”. He had just peed on the corner of a building.  She laughed too, realizing the tourist knew exactly what she had said.

This was about the time Pat was writing the Malacca, Malaysia post.  🙂

Sunday

Back to the main square for breakfast.

It is a beautiful sunny day (and Mother’s Day). We break up the day into three walks: Fortress of Akronauplia, then harbour and seawall (so we have an appetite for a late lunch ;-), ending with a hike up the Fortress of Palamidi.

Fortress of Akronauplia goes back to 4th century BC and sits atop the old town and harbour. It is the original town. When the Venetians arrive it becomes their first fortress and the town fills out below. (Later the Venetians build Palamadi for a more commanding view.)

Arriving at the fortress.

Views to the north of the old town and harbour.

Views to the west and south above the seawall.

Harbour and Seawall

Palamidi

Why not hike up the ‘999 steps’ just before sunset. From the bottom of the steps a few people are heading up.

Unfortunately I get vertigo near the top and head back down. Pat gets to the top as the fortress itself is closing. Still he captures fabulous photos in that beautiful evening light.

Nafplion is perfect for getting our travel legs back. We head south tomorrow morning.