Two Sore Backs

The drive from Kyparissi to Monemvasia is something else! Those narrow roads and switchbacks get you high up the mountainside and take your breath away.

As we drive into Monemvasia we see the castle town that the Porto Heli friends mention as a must see. ‘And stay at the castle’ they advise. Now we get it!

We didn’t think staying at the castle meant staying in a castle town. Then we wonder if our budget can afford it. Answer: yes!

The castle town of Monemvasia is on an island tied to Monemvasia town/mainland by a sandy and shale isthmus (tombolo for the geography buffs in the crowd).

In the photo below we are standing at the top of Monemvasia island looking back to Monemvasia town and you can just make out the tombolo.

There is some parking on the tombolo and along the road to the castle gate. From there we are on foot. I downsize to my daypack. We set off through the castle gates in search of a hotel room choosing to leave all luggage in the car until we have found a room. (The alternative is to stay on the mainland side of the town.)

In general, given that it’s shoulder season, our strategy for finding a hotel room is to do a bit of research on Google and Booking.com then just show up at a hotel we like and ask to see a room and take it from there. We are at our third overnight destination and agree that a good rule for this road trip is a two night minimum stay. (We probably won’t get to all 30 dots: we will have to come back another year. Oh well.)

For Monemvasia we employ the same strategy and we show up in person but there is no reception. Our first choice is at the far end of town (maybe a 10 minute walk from the gate), try WhatsApp and they can’t accommodate us. Luckily, a neighbouring hotel has space😀. Due to our lack of research (map with 30 dots) we discover that Monemvasia has a thriving tourist trade even in the shoulder season. We try to extend for a third night but as it is the weekend we cannot.

So it’s back to the car to get our luggage. The cobblestone paths are something else so today we are glad we have backpacks!

There is a vibe to this castle town. We arrive mid afternoon when the tour buses have dropped their passengers and day trippers are visiting.

There are a contingent of Europeans that travel around in (cara)vans; we marvel at their bravery on the narrow winding secondary highways.

We observe that each day smaller cruise ships take their turn in the harbour and shuttle their passengers to the castle. By mid evening the crowds, if you can call it crowded, have thinned. Pat mentions there is only one permanent resident in the castle town. I pinch myself!!!

Bastione Malvasia Hotel

Every room is unique. We select our favourite from three.

The balcony is spacious. We purchase a bottle of wine, cheese and olives to improve the experience.

History

Monemvasia comes from two Greek words moni emvasis meaning single approach.

From wiki:

‘Founded in the sixth century, and thus one of the oldest continually-inhabited fortified towns in Europe, the town is the site of a once-powerful medieval fortress, and was at one point one of the most important commercial centres in the Eastern Mediterranean. The town’s walls and many Byzantine churches remain as testaments to the town’s history.’

The original settlement, upper town, sits on a plateau protected by cliffs and defensive walls (fortification). It is reached by climbing a rock staircase known as the ladder of Monemvasia and accessed from lower town.

As Monemvasia grew in population the lower town developed. At one time 40,000 people lived on the island.

The lower town continues to be inhabited. It is also protected or fortified and sits just above sea level.

Upper Town

We start each morning with a wonderful buffet breakfast at our hotel. We’ll need it. Today we head up the staircase to the uninhabited upper town.

We were warned that the cobblestones are slippery from all the wear and tear over many centuries. Some of them are very shiny and best avoided.

Fortress Gate

The ladder stairs lead to the fortress gate.

At this viewpoint we meet a chatty couple from Nanaimo and discover they are caravanning around Europe in 3-6 month stints.

We spend 4 hours walking around looking at the remains of cisterns, houses, churches and the citadel.

At the Citadel

Situated at the highest elevation and furthest from the fortress entrance is the Citadel.

Hagia Sophia Orthodox Greek Church ia the only viable building in Upper Town. It is open four days a week.

Approaching from the south the church fits into the hillside. The steepness of the cliffs provides the church and upper town a natural fortification to the east. The same is true on the west side next to the citadel. Location!

As we get closer the church starts to impress.

Close up the church is magnificent.

The church was built around 1150 and is an example of Byzantine architecture. The church has functioned as orthodox, then catholic (Venetian period), a mosque (Ottomans) and back to orthodox.

(Just a comment that the air contains sub Sahara sand. The wind is coming from the south. Our photos will capture that muted grey blue hue for another week or so.)

We are done.

Back at our hotel we have a glass of wine, olives and cheese on our balcony.

Lower Town

Today the commerce happens in lower town. Many but not all buildings have been renovated – into hotel rooms, restaurants and gift shops. This is as a major tourist center in Eastern Peloponnese. (Many visitors do not venture beyond Lower Town due to lack of time or the physical nature of the climb.)

Here are some photos.

Delivery people are extremely fit. The cobblestone passages are designed for pedestrians and donkeys. We did not see any donkeys.

There are many cats though.

There is a construction site off to the right in the photo below. The rock is coming in by wheel barrow (pictured). Those fellas are fit.

Notice the gutters for water management.

Close up of the gutters.

Evening from our balcony. Priceless!

Speaking of balconies. We strike up a conversation with Susan and Mike – their balcony is in speaking distance from ours. Mike and Susan live just outside Morley, Alberta. We are invited to stay anytime we are on the TCH coming into Calgary.

Next dot (destination) is Kythira Island. We head to Neapoli to catch a ferry.