Two Sore Backs

Diros Caves to Kalamata

We say goodbye to Dimitris and Katafigi Hotel. This is our final day on Mani Peninsula. We have another full itinerary with 6 stops; arriving in Kalamata by evening.

Diros Caves

The caves are a 10 minute drive away.

On the walk to the cave entrance we pass this statue commemorating the sacrifice of the Maniot women on 26 June 1821 when they repelled a night time attack of 1,500 Ottoman Turkish soldiers.

We will tour the caves in small boats: 6 passengers and a driver. These caves are impressive. We have a good time cruising (for about 20 minutes) although Pat did bump his head on one occasion. The drivers are very skilled. I would get lost in the various waterways we passed through.

Here are a few photos:

Areopoli

Areopoli is the capital city of Mani. Its location is above and away from the sea. We take a stroll through these beautiful streets, stop for a coffee and go to the ATM.

These photos tell the story.

A poem by Giannis Ritsos is engraved in the stone.

With the help of Google, the translation is as follows:

These stones are not at ease under foreign footsteps

These faces are not at ease except in the sunlight

These hearts are not at ease except in what is just

Giannis Ritsos was a famous poet, a communist, and a member of the Greek resistance during WW2. Some refer to him as ‘the great poet of the Greek left’.

Limeni

A couple of switchbacks down the road we stop at Limeni. I’d say Limeni has a more modern old world charm. The masonry work does not seem nearly as ‘old world’ as in Areopoli. The turquoise sea is so easy on the eyes.

We find a table at Wild Horse restaurant. Lunch is terrific-arugula salad and pizza.

Note the pizza oven!

Agios Nikolaos

Today more than half the fun is driving along winding roads – climbing up mountainsides and down to the water’s edge. Switchbacks are always part of the equation.

We have many towns to explore. From Limeni we head inland. Rain has been a rare occurrence but we experience very minimal rain on the drive. Then we start to descend back to the sea. I guess it is time for an afternoon coffee.

We stop in Agios Nikolaos. Getting to the old town is tricky. Google helps negotiate one way streets but doesn’t know part of the Main Street is blocked off. After one failed attempt to get to Nirides cafe bar, we park a few blocks away and walk along the sea wall (aka Main Street).

Foneos Beach

We haven’t had our daily swim and the sky has brightened. The favourite beach in this area is Foneos just south of Kardamyli. Driving along we round a corner and park off to the side. This would not happen in Canada. Then it is a short hike down to the beach.

We head along the beach towards the cave and find a discreet spot to change. It is late in the day and there are not many beach goers.

Kardamyli

A little further along we arrive in Kardamyli. The town is gorgeous. It is a very popular location for visitors. In fact we arrive on the final day of a two week Jazz Festival so the town is buzzing with energy. Our timing is not optimal because the performances are done. People are letting their hair down so to speak and many will be leaving in the next day or two. Kardamyli will be sleepier in a few days but without the music. I would not have wanted to rush through Mani to hear some jazz.

We stop in for a small dinner (we have been eating and drinking coffee all day) at a great restaurant Tilka Cuzina and Wine Bar followed by a walk around. Kardamyli is added to the ‘stay longer next time’ list.

Kalamata

It is another 40 kilometres to Kalamata. Again the road goes inland and we climb up into the mountains and come back down to the sea near Akrogiali. We are in the ‘golden hour’ where the evening sun is so rich. Unfortunately we are driving so have no photos, only our memory.

The final 12 kilometres are at sea level. We stop at Megali Mantinia to watch the sunset.

Mani delivered: such a majestic, moody and magical place!