Two Sore Backs

We are on the western finger, Messinia. If you travel due west by boat, you would find yourself on the shores of Sicily, Italy.

Pilos, situated on the coast of the Ionian Sea, is a beautiful port town. The longer we stay the more we fall in love with this place. (In the end we stay an extra day!)

We check in and meet the one of the neighbourhood cats. We are staying just off the main square. Other than a few hours of loud reggae music courtesy of a neighbor, it is peaceful.

Melloni Castle

Next morning we head to Melloni Castle (dating back to the 1500s). The castle is strategically located on a point surrounded by water on three sides and a deep moat on the land portion. We cross the moat by bridge.

Invading the fortress would be a challenge from land or by sea.

It is an expansive area. The Venetians occupied the castle on two occasions and are responsible for many of the structures (now ruins).

At the tip we cross to the Bourtzi – essentially a tower. Prisoners were kept here.

Some light gets in to the tower but it is a pretty dreary place.

Looking back toward the castle from the Bourtzi offers another perspective of this castle.

Koroni

After lunch we carry on to Koroni. We are looking for a swimming beach and stop at Zagka Beach.

We find a small cove after climbing over some craggy rocks. Later we realize we can accomplish the same objective by wading in the water. Ha!

On the other side of this hill (far left) is the Port of Koroni and at lands end is Koroni’s Castle. Because of the hilly topography and narrow / often one way streets, our destination is 500 meters away as the crow flies and 6 kilometres by car.

Koroni is very quiet. It is not yet tourist season.

It is a long way up to the top of the castle.

A cat left its mark in the fresh walkway pavement.

Pilos Town

We spend the next few mornings wandering around Pilos.

The town square offers shade and is a popular hangout. In the evening people meet up for a coffee.

Walking north provides a panoramic view of the bay, port, and Pilos castle in the distance.

Street scenes-we enjoy walking around.

Olive orchards nearby.

Voidokilia Beach

Over the next couple of afternoons we explore this wonderful beach.

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The rest of this post will read like a food blog.

Food and Beverage

Over seven weeks in Greece we eat the Mediterranean diet. The meal choices come down to fish (many types and sizes and preparations) versus meat (grilled, braised, moussaka). I do not mind but Pat gets a little bored. We find splitting a main and a salad work well. We love sharing a big salad after rarely having this opportunity while in SE Asia.

Breakfasts

Latest breakfast hack is eating yoghurt in our hotel room.

Then we wander up these stairs and turn left and down half a block to our fave coffee place MPAHALOGATOS CAFFE. During tourist season the caffe morphs into a bar later in the day: unfortunately it wasn’t tourist season just yet.

The locals are chatty and we really enjoy planning our day while we sit and watch the world go by.

Lunches

After Methoni Castle we have earned lunch. We stop in at Nikos.

Fava is a favourite. We are looking forward to making it at home. Red onion, capers and olives add flavour and crunch to the ground yellow peas. The best versions come with a healthy helping of olive oil to mix in. Nikos’ version didn’t but it still tastes pretty darn good.

While in Pilos, we so enjoy Sto Steno we stop in a couple of times. The lunch restaurant has some outdoor tables and does a great lunchtime takeaway business. The cooks prepare many Greek specialties that are displayed cafeteria style. Salads are fresh. Grilled meats are available too. There are two prices – take away and eat in-with eat in slightly more expensive.

While at Sto Steno we chat with the manager / sommelier of the adjoining Koukos Wine Restaurant as he loads the wood box with olive wood. (We make a reservation for dinner.)

For our second lunch trip we have traditional Greek salad, imam (eggplant) and braised pork spareribs.

Dinner time

At Koukos Wine Restaurant in Pilos we sample a bottle of wine from the Nemea grape region on the Peloponnese. (We plan to stop in Nemea on our way back to Porto Cheli.)

Pat checks out the olive wood fire. The process is that the wood is burned down to coals in the fireplace (see photo) and then the coals are transferred to the grill.

It is a busy restaurant in the evening. The food is great. We are enjoying great weather and usually eat outside. It is something we take for granted. I like the interesting exterior finishes. (These next photos are taken in the day while the restaurant is closed.)

The next evening we stop in Gialova for dinner after a restful afternoon at the beach. Gialova is a popular tourist haunt and close by a number of nice resorts.

We have another fine Greek meal at Elia.

The lights of Pilos in the distance.